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Spotting problems before they get worse
- Watch
for leaks or stains under the car
If there is a
persistent red oil leak that you are sure is coming from
your car, you should have your shop check to see if
it is coming from your transmission or possibly from your
power steering system (most power steering systems also
use transmission fluid and leaks can appear on the ground
in roughly the same areas as transmission leaks.) If
all you see is a few drops on the ground, you may be able
to postpone repairs as long as you check your fluid level
often (but check with your technician to be sure.)
If transmission fluid levels go down below minimum levels
serious transmission damage can occur (the same advice
goes for power steering leaks as well.)
- Check
fluid for color and odor
Most manufacturers
require that you check transmission fluid levels when the
vehicle is running and on level ground. Pull the
transmission dipstick out and check the fluid for color
and odor. Transmission fluid is a transparent red
oil that looks something like cherry cough syrup. If
the fluid is cloudy or muddy, or it has a burned
odor, you should have it checked by your technician
who will most likely advise you to have a transmission
drain and refill or transmission tune-up. See the
Maintenance section below for details on this service.
Be sensitive to new noises, vibrations and shift
behavior
A modern transmission should shift smoothly and
quietly under light acceleration. Heavier acceleration
should produce firmer shifts at higher speeds. If shift
points are erratic or you hear noises when shifting
Maintenance
Transmission
fluid should be changed periodically. Your owner's
manual should give you the recommended intervals which could
be anywhere from 15,000 miles to 50,000 miles. Most
transmission experts recommend changing the fluid and filter
every 25,000 miles.
Few
transmissions have drain plugs to drain the old fluid.
In order to get the fluid out, the technician removes the
transmission oil pan. This is quite a messy job and
generally not recommended for the casual do-it-yourselfer.
Even if the transmission has a drain plug, the only way to
also change the transmission filter is to remove the pan. When
the pan is down, the technician can check for metal shavings
and other debris which are indicators of impending
transmission problems.
In
most cases during these transmission services, only about half
the oil is able to be removed from the unit. This is because
much of the oil is in the torque converter and cooler lines
and cannot be drained without major disassembly. The
fluid change intervals are based on the fact that some old
fluid remains in the system.
When
the transmission is serviced, make sure that the correct fluid
is used to re-fill it. Each transmission manufacturer
has their own recommendation for the proper fluid to use and
the internal components are designed for that specific
formula. GM usually uses Dexron, Fords prior to 1983 use Type
F while later models use Mercon. Late model Chrysler
products use ATF +3 +4 (Not using the correct fluid for
Chrysler transmissions is the most common reason for their
transmission problems.)
Toyota
sometimes uses Type T which is only available through
Toyota
and Lexus Parts departments. Honda also specs out their
own formula which is available from Honda or Acura parts
departments. A transmission will not work properly
or may even slip or shudder with the incorrect fluid, so make
sure that you double check. Your owner's manual will
tell you which fluid is required. Naturally, the owner's
manual will try to convince you to only use the manufacturer's
branded fluid, but they will also provide you with the specs
for the oil. If the aftermarket product indicates on its
container that they meet or exceed the specs for a particular
type of transmission fluid, it is generally ok to use that
product.
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